Vin de Paille

We make this only in the years that earn it — perhaps two in five. Selected rows are picked late and healthy, then laid out on straw mats in the loft to dry for weeks until each berry is a raisin holding a spoonful of intense juice.

What little we press ferments slowly and ages two years in small oak. Dried apricot, acacia honey, candied peel — and, running underneath all of it, a line of acid that keeps the sweetness from ever becoming syrup. Nine hundred half-bottles, and no apology for the price.