Coteau Blanc

The upper terraces face the morning sun and lose it by two — which is exactly what a white wants here. We pick before the heat, press whole bunches slowly, and let the wine sit on its fine lees through the winter without stirring.

What comes out is not a loud wine. Quince and white peach at first, then the chalk underneath, then a saline pull on the finish that the limestone puts there and we take no credit for. Drink it young and cold, or forget a few bottles for five years and be surprised.